Front end help?

[Jeepin Dave]

I need to replace a tierod (the outter one that runs from pitman to knuckle) and the bushings in the front track bar(stock) on my 98 TJ with the 4" RC lift and 33's. I am watching a few complete sets of steering arms on eBay, but I am wondering if there is another option to short of dropping $400-$500 into it.

So I am looking for some options for an inexpensive upgrade(or stock) for both? I know I can do the adjustable front, which I may do if I can find a decent sheap used one. But what else?

[PB2]

The rod that goes from the Pitman Arm is called the Drag Link. The Tie Rod goes from knuckle to knuckle.

I put all new Chevy 1 ton steering linkage on my Jeep when I installed the new front axle and it was only $300. If you are looking at $400-$500 someone is trying to rip you off.

[imported_Smitty]

http://www.stu-offroad.com/steering/zjtie/tierod-1.htm

[Jeepin Dave]

Drag Link... right I knew that too! Brainfart I guess. 1-Ton Chevy? Sounds like a decent set up. Any pointers on what year Chevys to look up for parts?

I like the ZJ set up a little better only because its bolt on. But I really need the drag link more. Plus, the tierod bolt is the same size. This could be good or bad...

I found that Rusty's make the entire set up, drag link, Tierods for about $260. Thats not bad either. Plus a local shop here makes one, www.bandittoffroad.com (http://www.bandittoffroad.com) I am just waiting on a quote for theres.

[PB2]

Originally posted by Jeepin_Dave:
Drag Link... right I knew that too! Brainfart I guess. 1-Ton Chevy? Sounds like a decent set up. Any pointers on what year Chevys to look up for parts? Unless you have at least a D44 the steering knuckles aren't big enough. They have to be reemed out for the bigger ends and that would make a Dana 30 knuckles way too thin. I was only saying if I could get that for $300 then you should be able to get a new drag link for less than $400-$500.

[Jeepin Dave]

Unless you have at least a D44 the steering knuckles aren't big enough. They have to be reemed out for the bigger ends and that would make a Dana 30 knuckles way too thin. I was only saying if I could get that for $300 then you should be able to get a new drag link for less than $400-$500. [/QB]Well I know I can get just a drag link for a lot less than even $300! I was thinking more like $100. I was looking suggestions to upgrade the steering that cost less than 400 or 500 bucks.

Ok, so I cant drill out the knuckles for larger tierods. SO I guess I would have to go with the V8 ZJ set up. I like the Currie set up, pricy though like I thought. The Rustys one is nice and affordable, but I dont remember if I had to drill it out. More research needed i think...

[Jeepin Dave]

Will the draglink and tierod setup from a WJ work?

[Knuckelhead]

Originally posted by Jeepin_Dave:
Will the draglink and tierod setup from a WJ work? Yes, with a little more work. The WJ conversion... :cool:
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e333/knuckelhead/steering6.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e333/knuckelhead/steering8.jpg

[fyrfyter4393]

Yes, the Currie setup is a bit spendy, but depending on the wheeling you do, it might be worth it. I was running the ZJ tie rod, but the problem with that it still leaves the stock draglink as a weak point. I bent both my ZJ tie rod and my stock draglink before I upgraded to Currie.

Here are a few shots to show the difference:

Top is the stock tie rod, middle is Currie, bottom is ZJ.
http://www.the-jersey-devil.com/photopost/data/500/355S5000095-med.JPG

http://www.the-jersey-devil.com/photopost/data/500/355S5000096-med.JPG

And here is a shot of the draglinks. Top is Currie, bottom is stock.
http://www.the-jersey-devil.com/photopost/data/500/355S5000091-med.JPG

Installed:
http://www.the-jersey-devil.com/photopost/data/500/355S5000097-med.JPG

[chutta]

If your 4700 lb rig gets suddenly stopped by a rock or whatever, will it not still bend a thicker tube, leaving you out just more money?

[fyrfyter4393]

The Currie setup is all solid, not tubular. But yes, it can still be bent, but not nearly as easily as the stock junk, or even the ZJ tie rod. I don't normally slam my junk into rocks at a high enough speed to bend something that solid. With the stock steering, it really doesn't take much to cause damage. I don't have enough fingers and toes to count how many stock tie rods I've seen bent on the trail.

The biggest benefit to me is the much stronger draglink. Alot of people upgrade the tie rod with no consideration for the draglink. My stock draglink was gradually bending (actually straightening out) every wheeling trip. Since I installed the Currie system, I have had absolutely no problems.

[Knuckelhead]

WJ tie rod ends are 24mm (.945). When used with JKS DOM tie rod and drag link it makes for a strong setup when doing the WJ conversion...

[Jeepin Dave]

So what did you do on the Pass side to get that to work? Use the knuckle from a WJ?

[Jeepin Dave]

So I would need the knuckles, calipers, and rotors too? What ball joints, TJ or WJ? Does it matter what year? Can I use my brake lines, unit bearings...?

[Knuckelhead]

I'm on dial-up right now. Do a search on "WJ D30"...
Edit; From an old post...
http://homepage.mac.com/rv6a/hi-steer.html
http://www.americanjeepers.com/articles/12/1/WJ-Brake-and-Knuckle-Conversion-for-YJ%92s
http://www.kevinsoffroad.com/sstabilizers.html
These are two sites and JU has a lengthy thread on doing this modification. It’s a bit involved but in the end I feel it was worth it. JKS has DOM for the drag link and tie rod (pre-cut and threaded, 24mm x1.5), jam nuts for the tie rod ends (WJ), sway bar relocation brackets, bearing hub ¼” spacers (need to be nickel welded to the knuckle). Go find an HPd30 and start building it while you still enjoy driving your jeep. I used a TF adjustable track arm and removed the bends (cold bending) and cut about 7” off the driver’s side then rethreaded it, works great. If you want some of the research info get in touch with me, it’s somewhat involved…
As I found out, none of the sites that you review are all encompassing for your application. This is NOT a modification I would recommend doing unless you plan on building the axle on a stand and recommend talking with someone who has already done the head beating on the wall for you. The braking with the Explorer disc’s on my rear axle and the WJ disc setup on the front with just the O ring removed from the metering shaft in the proportioning valve (OEM) with the stock master cylinder is great. I’m running 35 BFG MT’s and it brakes better than a stock TJ... IMO
Also do the reverse taper modification on the WJ knuckle arms to get better clearance for the tie rod. The JKS track arm relocation bracket comes with holes (2) for mounting depending on lift for getting the track arm and drag link parallel.
I had some interference with the draglink and tie rod stabilizer mount, so I took the bends out of the draglink tie rod at pitman arm end and pressed some DOM 1.25x4mm over it…
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e333/knuckelhead/steeriong2.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e333/knuckelhead/steering3.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e333/knuckelhead/knuckle2.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e333/knuckelhead/frontloaded.jpg