View Full Version : Wiring question
00TJ4L
09-25-2005, 02:02 PM
So one of my fog lights doesnt work. The bulb is good. I may just cut off the wiring leads where they leave the rest of the harness right under the front fenders and then rewire the lights seperate from the harness. I still want to use the factory switch on the lower part of the dash.
Anyone see any problems with this?
Also, how do you get to the back of that switch?
What size wire should be used?
Wiring is not my forte, so thanks for the help gentlemen. And ladies.
Knuckelhead
09-25-2005, 09:30 PM
Check the ground....
00TJ4L
09-26-2005, 02:38 PM
There is 2 wires... one is black. I assume that is the ground. Underneath the insulation the wire looks corroded. It is probably a bad ground. Could I use the same "hot" wire and just ground the light to the bumper or frame somewhere close to the light?
Knuckelhead
09-26-2005, 02:55 PM
That would work. Assuming that by grounding it you mean using the existing ground point from the original location of the ground wire or something equivalent. One thing about vehicle 12 volt DC systems, the voltage doesn't care where the ground is as long as it gets back to the battery without too much resistance...
My-first-jeep
09-26-2005, 06:38 PM
if that doesnt work i can help ya w/ the swicth i retro fitted a a pre 2003 fog ligth switch into my 2004...
00TJ4L
09-26-2005, 09:24 PM
hey my-first-jeep, how hard would it be to wire it independant from the rest of the harness. The reason I want to do that instead of just tracking down the problem is that the problem could be in a number of places. There is more wires than just a hot and a ground from the switch to the lighs and back. The switch is tied into the headlight swicht somehow, becuase without the headlights on you cant use the fog lights. Any help is appreciated.
Knuckelhead
09-27-2005, 09:14 AM
The fog lights are powered by a relay that gets activated by turning the parking lights on, another relay kills the fog lights when you turn the high beams on. As you said "Wiring is not my forte". You can wire the lights independent of the stock harness but I hope you know someone who has pulled a wire or two. Automotive wiring isn't that difficult once someone shows you the basics... HTH
My-first-jeep
09-27-2005, 10:09 AM
easiest thing to do is run a new circuit... make sure you use a relay. A relay is like a second switch which will allow you to use the factory switch. Do a quick search on the bb or the net on how to hool up a realy circuit.
As for the factory switch make sure you leave a few inches of wire on the back of the pigtail black to black and for hot- i taped into my "switched" cig. lighter so i cant leave my lights on when the jeep is off. I fused that wire and ran it to the switch...I took the second wire off the switch and ran it to the relay.
this system looks good and works well the only differenc from the factory is that the switch is iluminated all the time.
My-first-jeep
09-27-2005, 10:19 AM
http://bbb.quadratec.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=38;t=003995;p=1#000 005
this will also help you out
00TJ4L
09-28-2005, 07:20 PM
Fixed it... thanks fellas.
Knuckelhead
09-29-2005, 08:52 AM
And the fix was?
disturbed 1
09-30-2005, 03:58 AM
Originally posted by 00TJ4L:
So one of my fog lights doesnt work. The bulb is good. I may just cut off the wiring leads where they leave the rest of the harness right under the front fenders
Don't cut the wires.....just unplug the fogs from the main harness under the fenders.
00TJ4L
09-30-2005, 11:41 AM
The problem was that the ground wire was corroded out back as far as the connecter under the fender, so I cut the connecter out and ran wires straight, with lots of heatshrink and electrical tape.
Knuckelhead
09-30-2005, 12:13 PM
Just as a hint, solder is so much better than crimp connectors. ;)
disturbed 1
09-30-2005, 01:17 PM
Oh yeah. I've had lots of fun chasing down wiring problems due to loose or broken "crimp or barrel" connectors. My soldering iron is my best friend now.
Here is what I do. First crimp for mechanical strength, and then solder for electrical conductivity, and then use heat shrink to help stop corrosion from moisture, and you won't have any problems.
Knuckelhead
10-01-2005, 11:58 AM
Same here but no crimp, if it gets hot enough to melt the solder I don't want it to hold together ya know... ;)
I take it you are talking about heat and solder terminals? I used to use them at work, but now that I don't work there anymore I have a hard time finding them, any suggestions?
Jerry Bransford
10-02-2005, 03:18 PM
Originally posted by Knuckelhead:
Same here but no crimp, if it gets hot enough to melt the solder I don't want it to hold together ya know... Um, properly fused circuits don't have that problem. ;)
Knuckelhead
10-02-2005, 09:32 PM
Originally posted by Jerry Bransford:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Knuckelhead:
Same here but no crimp, if it gets hot enough to melt the solder I don't want it to hold together ya know... Um, properly fused circuits don't have that problem. ;) </font>[/QUOTE]Yep, but if there is a failure that excides the capability of the circuit I would prefer the solder melt than draw any more amps. Like battery connections, I make my own and some draw up to 250 amps. For reworking circuits it's easier to de-solder than cut and re-crimp connections...